Kreg KMA2600 Square-Cut
Yesterday, we were all 'hoo-haa!" over Kreg's new Multi-Mark all purpose measuring tool, and to show that we're even handed, today we're going to dump on their other new product, something called the Square-Cut.
The Square-Cut plays the role of the rafter square when it's in saw guide mode. It has a lip which sits against the long end of a board, creating an edge to run the foot plate of your saw against, allowing for a perfect 90 degree cut. The one drawback to doing this with a rafter square is that the off-set from cutting line to edge of footplate needs to be known and figured into the equation, leading to some tedious measurements. Kreg solves this problem by having a little adjustable piece of plastic extend from the Square-Cut out the appropriate distance to the line. Now, all you have to do is align the little plastic thing to the cut line and the saw guide is automatically in the correct place.
Which sounds good in theory, but we wonder about practice. How can this little plastic arm survive a few passes with a saw. They're bound to make some contact and when that happens, see you later little plastic arm. There's also the issue of south-paw carpenters...sorry guys, there's nothing for you here. The Square-Cut is righties only.
We suggest just using a rafter square and visually lining up the blade and the cut line. Is that so hard? If you have halfway decent vision and passable hand-eye coordination, this should work (and work fast). It's always been fine for us and we even used this method last year to make some pretty fancy-pants shelves that turned out great. Another option is to make your own saw guides.
The Square-Cut costs about $16.
Read More in: Hand Tools | Power Tool Accessories
Share this Article with others:
Came straight to this page? Visit Tool Snob for all the latest news.
Posted by Doug Mahoney at May 20, 2010 5:44 AM
We're just skeptical of the whole plastic arm, that's all. In order to make an accurate cut, the arm has to be on the cut line...the same cut line that the blade has to be on. Seems to us that there's a potential for contact there.
And speaking of not making sense...
"BTW, if your blade did happen to contact the arm, wouldn't you rather scuff up a cheap plastic arm than destroy your $35 saw blade?"
Huh? Who said anything about destroying a saw blade?
You should probably try the tool before you knock it. What I want to know is why your blade would ever touch the arm... it's set specifically so that won't happen. Unless you don't tighten it down (your own fault) that will never be an issue. I've been using mine for several weeks and not had any troubles. It's a handy tool, just cut some siding with it this weekend.
BTW, if your blade did happen to contact the arm, wouldn't you rather scuff up a cheap plastic arm than destroy your $35 saw blade?
This post just doesn't make any sense.